To create a hollow structure, my reciprocating bow drill was indispensable.

For the materials, I chose conical tiger spikes, which are generally the same length. Making such precise, standardized arrows is easier with readily available materials.

However, to ensure the dimensions were accurate, I wrote down the specifications for these small arrows in a notebook. This important data was so I could refer to it later if I forgot the manufacturing dimensions.

I set the arrow size at four centimeters, which is shorter than my blowgun arrows, but I'm confident that the finished product will be just as powerful as a blowgun.

The first thing I need to do is to attach a flattened steel needle to the bow drill and make a vertical hole at the bottom of the tiger thorn, extending through the side of the thorn tip.

As for why I did this, I will explain it in detail later.

It wasn't easy to secure these tiger spikes, so I first stuck them directly into the grass, and then punched holes at a slight angle.

After drilling these holes, I started making the crucial push rod, which I used a specially made chuck that had been sharpened to a fine point.

The card has a crescent-shaped groove on it, which I have sharpened. A thinned wooden stick can be scraped into a small cylindrical stick simply by passing it through the crescent-shaped groove of the card.

The size of this bayonet is the same as the size of my drill bit, so the wooden stick I made can be inserted into the hole of the tiger spike just like the plunger of a syringe.

The next step is the same as for blowguns: attaching a resin-coated, bowl-shaped tail fin to the arrow completes the basic structure.

As for its working principle, it is somewhat similar to that of an anesthetic bullet. The reason I made the hole on the side of the needle tip earlier was for this purpose.

A small ring of natural rubber is also used here, which I can mass-produce using molds later.

First, pull the lever at the back like a syringe to fill the entire hole of the tiger thorn with venom.

Then, use a natural rubber band to temporarily seal the hole at the tip of the tiger's quill to prevent the venom from leaking out.

This is because the front end is blocked by atmospheric pressure, so the rear lever, which is halfway extended, will not fall out.

Until the precise arrow strikes the prey, the rubber ring blocking the hole will shift backward due to the prey's skin.

At this point, the injection hole is exposed, and the arrow, propelled by its force, penetrates deeply into the prey's flesh.

The push rod, upon hitting its prey, loses its center of gravity and continues to move forward due to inertia, pushing the venom along with it into the prey.

This completes the venom injection perfectly.

Although the hole in this tiger thorn is only four centimeters deep, it is still enough to inject venom into some small to medium-sized venomous snakes.

If the venom is strong enough, even a small venomous snake like the banded krait, with a venomous volume of only two millimeters and fangs that are less than two millimeters long, can be more deadly to a large animal than to a larger venomous snake.

It's at least dozens of times better than those arrows with only a little venom on them, like a seasoning.

I haven't decided what kind of venom to use yet, but there's no shortage of it in this rainforest. I can easily make a dozen or so kinds of venom if I want to.

Over the next few hours, while adding firewood and waiting for the ceramic mold to take shape, I made as many of these poison needle blowguns as possible.

At the very least, I need to make a blowgun with a magazine, which is a blowgun with thirty poison needles.

An hour later, I sealed the furnace. This mold is very important; it directly affects the quality of my weapon, so I can't rush it. I need to let it cool naturally to ensure the accuracy of the dimensions.

By the afternoon, the kiln had finally cooled down completely. I removed the sealing stone slab and the dried sealant, and carefully took out the precision ceramic mold.

I carefully examined the inside of the mold, and the glaze inside was melted very evenly, without any glaze residue.

This is the most important condition for molds. If there is glaze inside, the mold is considered unusable, and I will have to make it all over again.

Finding no problems, I measured its internal dimensions again and found that they were still about the same as before, with little difference in the data.

Now I'm going to start processing those natural rubbers to make them more resilient and wear-resistant.

I used charcoal to start a small fire. The temperature for heating the rubber shouldn't be too high, otherwise it will burn them directly. Generally, maintaining a temperature of 80 to 100 degrees Celsius is best.

I added a small amount of water to a ceramic pot and brought it to a gentle boil. Then I cut the natural rubber into small pieces and added them little by little, letting them slowly melt into a liquid.

Next, slowly add the sieved fine carbon powder to this liquid rubber, stirring thoroughly as you add it, until it becomes a black semi-fluid that looks like sesame paste.

After completing this step, I rubbed the peat moss I had found into small pieces and dried it by the fire.

I've mentioned peat moss before; it can be used as a substitute for coal for heating.

In a sense, they are also part of coal, but they were just too unlucky to be buried and form coal seams.

Therefore, its chemical composition is essentially the same as that of coal, the most important of which is the presence of sulfides formed by long-term precipitation.

These peat mosses, which resemble coal, also produce sulfur dioxide when burned. What I need to collect is sulfur dioxide gas because I need to react it with distilled water to make dilute sulfuric acid.

The process was the same as producing dilute sulfuric acid before. I first distilled the water in a jar, and then built a simple distillation pit to ignite the dry peat as fuel.

Then, a U-shaped downward-facing chimney was made out of mud, and a tube made of hollow wooden stick was inserted into the jar filled with distilled water at the end of the chimney.

The gas coming out of the chimney contains two gases: carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide. Carbon dioxide is insoluble in water, so only sulfur dioxide can react with water to form sulfur trioxide liquid.

After repeated aeration and oxidation, dilute sulfuric acid with tetravalent sulfate ions is obtained.

The purpose of vulcanization is to improve the strength, elasticity, abrasion resistance, and anti-aging properties of rubber. Unvulcanized natural rubber has low strength, average elasticity, and is sticky to the touch. After vulcanization, cross-linking structures are formed between rubber molecules, which greatly improves its properties.

Furthermore, vulcanization improves the dimensional stability of the rubber. It reduces deformation during use, ensuring dimensional accuracy of the product.

Vulcanization methods are divided into hot vulcanization and cold vulcanization. Here I am using the most common hot vulcanization method.

Thermal vulcanization involves placing natural rubber products into a vulcanizing tank or vulcanizing machine, and then heating and pressurizing the rubber to react with a vulcanizing agent to obtain vulcanized products.