I removed the black, pasty rubber from the fire to let it cool down a bit. Generally, it's fine as long as it feels slightly hot, around 50 degrees Celsius.

Because next I'm going to add the vulcanizing agent I made earlier to these natural rubbers.

Excessive temperature may accelerate the hardening of rubber, and over time it may also cause rubber aging, affecting its service life.

Too low a temperature is also not good, because if the temperature is too low, the vulcanizing agent cannot react fully with the natural rubber, and the requirements of the vulcanization process cannot be met.

So the step I'm taking now is the most crucial one that will determine success or failure, but I don't need to worry about that. The reason for this is related to some of my past experiences.

I've processed and manufactured vulcanization processes hundreds of times at home for specific needs, so I have some experience in this area.

Since the concentration of the vulcanizing agent I used was not very high, I could add more when adding it.

After adding an appropriate amount of vulcanizing agent and stirring evenly, you can put it back on the charcoal to warm it up again.

Heat and stir these natural rubber mixtures containing vulcanizing agents until they become quite viscous, and you can feel significant resistance when you use a stick to remove them from the fire.

My ceramic mold has two parts. One part is a square cylindrical mold of two different sizes. One end of the mold is sealed, and the other end is used to add the mixed natural rubber material.

Another part of the mold is a cylindrical push rod with a mushroom-shaped head latch at the front. This part is called the outer mold in the industry and is the main mold for processing the internal structure of rubber.

The rear half of the mold is a solid cylinder with the same diameter as the inside of the square tube, and this part of the mold is also made of ceramic.

At this point, I placed the bottom of the mold in a ceramic basin filled with cold water to act as a coolant for the mold.

Two-thirds of the black, sticky rubber was added to the mold, and then the outer mold with the double mushroom-head push rod was pushed into the inner mold.

The next step is to immediately apply pressure to the mold. Because vulcanized natural rubber is irreversible after molding, applying pressure and cooling will quickly turn the rubber into a solid state with greater elasticity and density.

I pressed down hard for less than a minute, and I felt that the outer mold in my hand could not be moved forward even an inch. At this moment, it was like pressing on a car tire.

After waiting for about a minute, I estimated that the natural rubber inside had completely set, so I carefully pulled out the compacted square rubber block.

Because the lever has a double mushroom-shaped grooved clip, it's not difficult to pull it out; there's just a slight vacuum suction inside.

Fortunately, the distance between the mold and the piston is relatively short, only one centimeter, so pulling it out is not a problem.

"Pop!"

With a crisp pop, I pulled the black piston off the mold.

I checked the demolded piston and found it to be tough and smooth, without any cracks or wrinkles.

Cut off the excess rubber from the edge molding process with a knife, and it can be used inside the cylinder of that weapon.

I used the same method to make five sets of interchangeable parts and a large number of small rubber rings with the remaining rubber.

I used the badger fat that had cooled to a semi-solid state to make grease for the cylinder, and spread it evenly throughout the cylinder.

Next, install the three connecting rods onto the corresponding pistons, and also apply some badger oil for lubrication.

Having done all this, I placed one end of a thin hemp rope at the very bottom of the vacuum-assisted cylinder, with the other end outside the cylinder. I did the same for the other vacuum-assisted cylinder, placing a hemp rope that touched the bottom.

At this point, you can insert all three pistons into their corresponding piston holes.

Because of the addition of the thin thread, an extra gap is created inside the vacuum cylinder, allowing the gas inside to slowly escape through this gap.

Since the master cylinder is connected to the air chamber, which in turn is connected to a small hole in the barrel, the gas pushed out by the master cylinder can be directly discharged from the barrel without any pressure issues.

After all three pistons had reached the bottom, I slowly and forcefully pulled out the thin hemp rope.

At this point, the elasticity of the rubber allows it to return to its original shape, sealing the entire cylinder and creating a vacuum state again.

I tested three of the prepared poisoned blowguns with water. I drew water into the needle body and then used the small rubber ring I made to plug the small hole one centimeter below the needle tip.

The pulling force of this vacuum cylinder is slightly greater than that of my crossbow, but it's not to the point of being unavoidable.

After engaging the trigger safety, the pneumatic weapon is now fully operational.

To test its power, I took out my already prepared wild boar hide and hung it about twenty paces away.

I wanted to see how powerful and accurate it was at this distance. After aiming at the wild boar hide, I pulled the trigger.

"Whoosh whoosh!"

Three rapid sounds emanated from the gun barrels, heading straight for the wild boar hide hanging on the tree branch opposite.

"Bang..."

Even from this distance, I could hear a deep, muffled thud coming from the thick wild boar hide.

I went over to check the condition of the arrow and found that the arrow's tail was still intact on the surface of the wild boar hide.

At a distance of twenty paces, the three arrows would be spaced only about twenty centimeters apart. In close to medium-range coverage fire, assuming the direction is correct, the chance of the enemy not being hit is as small as winning the lottery.

The arrow on the other side pierced through the wild boar hide and lodged in the tree trunk, where the bark was still damp.

Clearly, the force applied earlier was too great, penetrating directly through the leather barrier and spraying all the water from the syringe onto the tree trunk.

The terrifying force did not disappoint me. Putting aside the power of the venom, the sheer power of the arrow was comparable to that of a blowgun, enough to hunt small prey.

I was thinking, if those three poisoned darts had been coated with highly toxic poison, wouldn't they have been like injecting the giant short-faced bear directly into its abdominal cavity?

Just imagining this terrifying scene sends chills down my spine. This weapon is simply too brutal; it's practically the weapon of my dreams!

"Hahaha... With this, I can finally walk around the jungle with my head held high."

I burst into laughter, a laugh that sounded like the manic excitement of a villain in a movie who had mastered some kind of unparalleled evil skill.

Strike while the iron is hot. I remember I had a small tube of concentrated aconitine stock solution before. That stuff has stable toxicity.

It had enough leeway to kill three sand monsters back then, yet it could still poison other predators that came to eat it, which shows just how toxic it was.

I've decided to use it to make poison first!