Over the past two days, I've planned to hunt quite a few waterfowl. There were more than twenty wild ducks alone, and seven or eight swans.

These waterfowl provided me with a large amount of feathers and a decent amount of meat, and feathers are exactly what I desperately need right now.

On the third day, I saw that the clay had turned white and dried completely, and it was time to move on to the next task.

I laid a thick layer of thatch-woven mats with the bird feathers I had collected, and then sewed another mat of roughly the same length and width together with fine hemp thread.

The straw mats weren't finely woven; they were actually quite rough. I made these two mats simply to keep the feathers from flying around.

I created this simple down mattress by laying a layer of thatch on the dried soil, placing the down mattress on top, and then covering it with a leopard skin sheet.

This effect is comparable to that of a Simmons mattress.

Of course, with that layer of clay, my lower layer is completely airtight, and the structure is also soft and breathable.

I lay down on it and tried it out; the comfort was almost comparable to the amenities in a hotel suite. Plus, I was using a leopard-skin mattress, which elevated the level of luxury significantly.

Now, a curtain needs to be made for both the front and back doors of the house to protect against the cold wind.

To make this kind of windproof curtain, it needs to be thick and sturdy, and it also needs to be resilient enough to withstand strong winds so that the wind doesn't blow the curtain into the house.

So I plan to weave this curtain together with bamboo strips and thatch.

I first made a bamboo mat by using bamboo strips as a base, then arranged small bundles of thatch tightly in a row, and then used bamboo strips to tightly weave them together and wrap them inside.

I made two bamboo curtains that were about half a person's height, and the size of the bamboo curtains was slightly wider than my front and back openings.

After being securely fastened with bamboo strips along the V-shaped frame, the curtain can only be pushed open outwards, while preventing outside wind from blowing in.

I left a three-centimeter gap at the bottom of the curtain at the front entrance for ventilation.

After finishing all this, I breathed a sigh of relief as I looked at the nearly completed treehouse. Now, only the last step remained: smoothing the roof to prevent snow accumulation.

It's not difficult to achieve this, since I have gold, a material with excellent ductility and stability.

However, I don't have many materials left, so I need to refine some more to use. For the next two days, I resumed my work of refining charcoal and gold.

After refining the gold, I began to hammer it, stretching it to several times its original length.

I hammered the gold into thinner sheets, each one millimeter thick. These sheets were made from whole pieces of gold, and they were thirty centimeters wide and over two meters long.

These hammered gold sheets are then repeatedly rolled and pressed with wooden sticks, like rolling out dough, so that the hammer marks on the metal surface are rolled away and become smoother.

Next, the processed gold sheets are laid out in a straight line along the inverted V-shaped roof ridge, like spreading a hada (a ceremonial scarf).

The remaining gold pieces at both ends were bent and wrapped around the bamboo strips of the frame to secure them, thus completing the roof.

Such a roof is smooth, providing not only protection from rain and snow, but also a long lifespan. Unless damaged by accident, gold will not oxidize or deteriorate for thousands of years.

Planning ahead is my habit. I looked at my masterpiece with satisfaction, and I was no longer afraid of how cold this winter might be.

These days, Top has been helping me feed the chicks. During the day, when I'm not free, he catches insects like crickets to feed them, and in the evening, he feeds them the fish entrails I harvest.

Under Top's careful feeding, my dozen or so chicks grew very quickly. Their tail feathers and wing feathers grew out quite a bit, and their appetite was much greater than before.

However, Top has no shortage of food now, so it is quite happy to take on the job of finding food for these chicks. During the day, you can almost always see Top busy at work.

Top is indeed a diligent monkey.

I'm now planning to build a grain storage warehouse. My grain already fills about ten baskets, and there's not enough room left.

I was still a little uneasy about using the ground as a warehouse, but now that the trees are sheltering me, I feel there's nowhere safer than in the trees.

Firstly, climbing trees already keeps the vast majority of wild animals out. Any animal that can climb trees, especially the monkeys within a mile of my residence, serves as the best natural warning.

No matter what kind of animal it is, from leopards to snakes and insects, none can escape the surveillance of these monkeys.

I plan to build a larger warehouse. The best part of the canopy of the tree I'm on has already been used to build a treehouse, so there's not much space left to use. Therefore, I plan to find another tree nearby.

I chose a tree that was next to me, a tree with a large canopy and branches that radiated outwards in all directions.

Because this tree is only two or three meters away from me, I decided to build a bridge between the two trees to pass through.

I still plan to use sturdy wood to make the bridge, since it's a relatively durable material.

Therefore, I plan to cut down some poplar trees of suitable size to build the bridge, and I will use the traditional method of building wooden arch bridges.

To make this, I also needed a chisel, a hammer, and woodworking tools. So I used the same iron-smelting method I had used before to smelt iron and made a chisel, a hammer, a saw, a plane, and a small axe.

First, I cut the poplar wood into individual logs. Then, I cut out four thicker logs, each about a meter long. Finally, I carved a mortise and tenon joint at each end of the log.

A groove also needs to be drilled on the opposite side of these timber slots, positioned in the middle of the timber. These slots should be about five centimeters in size so that subsequent timber can be inserted.

To ensure the accuracy of the data, I used a broken branch as a marker.

Then I cut two two-meter-long pieces of wood to make the longitudinal beams of the bridge. The positions of these grooves are the same as before, with two grooves carved at both ends first.

Here's a slight difference: the next step is to carve two grooves on the reverse side of the grooves in these two two-meter crossbeams.

The grooves should be positioned similarly to those on a 1-meter scale, or halfway between 50 centimeters, with two grooves made at each end.

With the main beams laid, the next step is to manufacture the crossbeams. Following the principle of four grooves per square beam, sixteen one-meter-long, five-centimeter-thick wooden beams are made, each perfectly sized to fit into the grooves.