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An Qingjue and An Chuyu did not make this budget. They carried food that they could "picnic" in the mountains in their backpacks. To eat the real and authentic Prade Auntie pancakes without the smell of money, it is best to travel back to that era to taste them. By the way, An Qingjue also saw boxes of Auntie's cookies in a supermarket in Paris (the packaging is exactly the same), and a box costs about 0.8 euros.
LP described the pedestrian street after entering Mont Saint-Michel as follows: "The only street in Mont Saint-Michel is a narrow street misleadingly called Grandrue, with restaurants, hotels and a lot of tacky souvenir shops on both sides." An Qingju and An Chuyu completely agreed with this comment, and really didn't see the trace of romance that other girls on the Internet admired:
In addition to cider, Brittany has another original snack, crepe, which Chinese people can completely understand as "French pancake". The method of making crepe is exactly the same as that of pancake, but instead of crispy chopped green onion and egg on top, it is chocolate + banana, or something else.
This "specialty" can be found everywhere in Mont Saint-Michel - in fact, it can be found everywhere in France. Since the largest number of Asian tourists to Mont Saint-Michel are Japanese, this "specialty food" is usually introduced in Japanese.
However, crepes in other places are usually made and baked on the spot, but here a large stack of them are baked in advance and kept warm, and then poured with various sauces when they are ready to be eaten.
It’s better to go early in the morning, but the commercial street in front is crowded. When you start to climb the Mont Saint-Michel Abbey, there are fewer people all of a sudden - all the tourists are curious about the souvenirs.
After entering the door, follow the instructions of the guide. Walk along the guard hall and the big stairs to the first floor of Mont Saint-Michel Abbey. You will first see a "west platform" from which you can overlook the mudflats around Mont Saint-Michel.
Today, the long levee connecting to the mainland has been widened and reinforced, and is still under construction. Apparently, more roads will be connected in the future. There are even bicycle lanes!
Looking down, you can see various lookouts built around Mont Saint-Michel, but now they have become places for seagulls to stroll and juggle. Although the weather was very bad that day, there were still tourists following the guide to walk and tour on the mudflats just after the tide receded. It is said that those places must be led by a guide, and it is said that the angles for taking photos are better:
Going up the spiral stone steps from this floor will first lead you to the third floor, where you will see a spectacular double-decker corridor. This is called the monastery corridor, which connects many surrounding buildings and is said to be a place for prayer.
The style of the double-layered colonnade is a bit like the Angkor Temple in Angkor Wat. At first glance, it is full of changes and the visual experience is very good: standing in a corner of the corridor and looking at the surrounding buildings, it is indeed very beautiful:
The entire monastery was actually rebuilt, reconstructed, and expanded many times over the eight centuries; aesthetics changed in different periods, and the design style also showed the evolution of the times, keeping up with the times. However, to build such a building in such a bitter cold area, it really requires the perseverance of many saints and workers:
As mentioned before, it started to rain when An Qingjue and An Chuyu arrived in the morning, and it was pouring rain when they left at noon. At first, it was okay to be inside the building. Later, when the rain was a little lighter, we sat under the dense trees, hiding from the rain and picnicking, hoping to wait until the rain was over before going out.
Unexpectedly, the sky showed no sign of appreciation. When An Qingjue and An Chuyu finished lunch and walked outside, raindrops as thick as gluten poured down. An Qingjue and An Chuyu's umbrellas and quick-drying waterproof sunscreen clothing were completely drenched.
When I was standing at the shuttle bus stop, I felt that I was relatively lucky, at least I had an umbrella. Many tourists were even more embarrassed. The 10-minute wait felt like a lifetime, and when the shuttle bus finally arrived, everyone lined up to get on the bus in a gentlemanly manner, and then went home in a mess, dripping wet and making strange "puff puff" sounds...
I thought that the rest of the day would be spent taking a shower at my residence, then hiding in the house to watch the rain, sleep in, and wait for dinner. I didn't expect to experience the unpredictable weather of Mont Saint-Michel again. As soon as I returned to An Qingju and An Chuyu's residence, the rain stopped. When An Qingju and An Chuyu finished taking a shower and packing their clothes, the sky had already revealed a corner of blue.
This gave An Qingju and An Chuyu plenty of time to go to Saint-Malo and Cancale in the afternoon. When they returned at around 8pm, the sky was overcast and the sun was finally about to set.
So An Qingju and An Chuyu rushed to Mont Saint-Michel again. The light was much better at this time, and everything looked three-dimensional, with sunshine and white clouds, and the air was very fresh. The sunset at Mont Saint-Michel was still nice.
Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo… Yes, in “Ninety-Three”, the Marquis of Landenac landed here with the help of the helmsman; this is indeed a famous pirate town. But why does this name sound so familiar?
It was not until he started writing the travelogue that An Qingjue suddenly remembered that this name appeared in Maupassant's short essay "Uncle Jules" that he learned in middle school!
By the way, the “Havre” where the family in the article lived was actually Honfleur. When the family heard that Uncle Jules had become rich, they went out to sea to celebrate. However, they recognized that the old sailor opening oyster shells on the deck was Jules - they were stunned.
On the way back, the whole family specially changed the boat to Saint-Malo to avoid meeting this poor relative again. Now that I have been there, I finally understand that from the location, this Saint-Malo is the same as that Saint-Malo.
This information is from Baidu: Saint-Malo's name comes from a saint named Malo (who came here to preach). But around the 16th century, it became a port for pirates. Many of these pirates "robbed on orders" and gave the things they robbed from other countries to the French royal family first.
Since they were "regular pirates with a national system", they accumulated a lot of wealth, and the city prospered, and the surrounding real estate also became more luxurious. In the 17th century, when Britain and France were competing for supremacy at sea, this place was "ordered to resist" the invasion, and the pirate city was built on a large scale. However, the current city wall was repaired later because it was completely destroyed by air raids in World War II.
An Qingju and An Chuyu found the city easily according to the GPS instructions, but the problem was parking. Saint-Malo is actually very small. Later, when An Qingju and An Chuyu were driving to Zhangbei in China, they passed by an ancient post station city from the Ming Dynasty called "Jimingyi". An Chuyu thought that Saint-Malo was about the same size as "Jimingyi".
It is not easy for tourists to park their cars, but fortunately there are many large parking lots outside the city, lined up next to the port. As long as you are willing to pay, you don't have to worry about not finding a parking space. By the way, I would like to advise that the idea of saving money by parking randomly in Europe is not advisable, and the fine is expensive. This is the port outside the old city of Saint-Malo, which An Qingju and An Chuyu saw from the top of the city wall:
After all, it was the seaside, so there were a lot of seabirds. Strange seabirds could be seen everywhere, standing proudly on the roofs of various cars in the parking lot. An Qingju and An Chuyu had never been to the south of France. They only knew that the sunshine on the seaside here was bright enough, but they didn't know what the south would be like.
As soon as you enter the old town, you can feel the pirate atmosphere. Street performers in pirate costumes can be seen everywhere, performing various shows. Some perform with ventriloquism and puppets, some directly offer rewards for taking photos with tourists, and some use hand-cranked paper music boxes to play various musical performances, which are all quite interesting:
There are many tourists on the street, and there are many tourist souvenirs. Pirate-themed souvenirs are the main ones, and there are also many music-themed souvenirs. After searching, I found out that Saint-Malo is also a music town. Every year, Saint-Malo is one of the main stops of the French Music Festival.
The various music boxes sold in the window are good souvenirs. An Qingju really likes the small music box that plays "Lamer" and "La Vie en Rose". When I was leaning over the window to test the sound, I met an old man who was happily singing lamer with the accompaniment. A music box is only a few dollars. I didn't buy it, which was a bit regretful afterwards.
This old city is surrounded by high walls, and the top of the walls is very wide. It is estimated that in the past, it was no problem to transport cannons by horse. Standing on the wall and looking out of the city, the scenery is really beautiful. Looking around from the wall, you can roughly imagine the prosperity of the past:
The northern end of the city faces the coast, and there are always small islands not far away. It is expected that there must be many reefs underneath. The early sailors must have been well versed in the waterways and traps here. Unfamiliar ships would probably hit the reefs before reaching the pirate city.
The coast here has a flat sandy beach like the Normandy beach. A stone fenced area outside the city has become a natural seawater swimming pool: sit on the stone wall at the top of the city and bask in the sun. The sea breeze blows on your face, and the air is filled with the sobbing French folk songs and the fresh smell of sea water. It is really nice and comfortable.
Since lunch was just a picnic, the two foodies were still looking forward to dinner. We listed three wishes: dining in Pontorson (close to home, rest after dinner); dining in Saint-Malo (a tourist city, eat some world cuisine); going to Cancale to eat seafood.
It was just past four in Saint-Malo, but my stomach was already empty. An Chuyu was looking forward to eating meat (large carnivores are by nature), so she wanted to have kabab. She found a kabab in Saint-Malo, but it was closed.
I thought, maybe it was because it was Saturday, so they took a break? -- It wasn't until many days later that I realized it was because it wasn't time for dinner. The French are so hypocritical! In this way, An Qingju and An Chuyu were brought to Cancale with their hungry stomachs.
There is no mistake in the poem, post, content, and read the book on 6, 9, and bar!
Cancale is not even a city, it is basically a fishing village. But it is known as the "oyster capital" of France, you know what to eat. Here I have to mention "Uncle Jules, the First Encounter of Anne", which describes the process of eating oysters (that is, raw oysters) like this:
"My father suddenly saw two gentlemen treating two beautiful ladies to oysters. An old sailor in ragged clothes opened the oysters with a knife and handed them to the two gentlemen, who then handed them to the two ladies.
They eat in a very elegant way, holding the oysters with a small handkerchief, leaning their heads forward slightly to avoid staining their robes; then they quickly move their mouths slightly to suck up the juice and throw the oyster shells into the sea.
It can be seen that in the French tradition, oysters have always been eaten raw in this way. However, if you have watched the episode of "Mr. Bean's Holiday", you must remember the scene at the beginning when Mr. Bean saw the French seafood platter?
When Mr. Bean saw the strange-looking oyster, he even brought it to his ear to listen to see if it was still alive. After seeing the waiter's encouraging look, he could only swallow the "national quintessence" with great difficulty (his face looked like he was about to cry). After it entered his mouth, it looked strange again, and he was terrified, as if he had swallowed a few live grasshoppers.
Seeing the waiter's inquiring look, "Everything's ok?", he gestured like an expert, "yummy! perfect!"...
This detailed description made An Qingju and An Chuyu a little discouraged. In China, no one dared to eat oysters raw, because the heavy metal content exceeded the standard! Moreover, An Qingju and An Chuyu had the painful experience of vomiting and diarrhea after eating too much seafood, so they were really a little scared of oysters.
This small fishing village looks like a main road along the seashore, and of course there are some deep paths leading to residents' homes. In the evening, when the tide is low, the fishing boats are stranded on the beach. The entire Cancale seawall is covered with white broken oyster shells, proving that the "Oyster Capital" is true.
There are seafood stalls on the shore, oysters are sold very cheaply, about 4-5 euros a dozen, and there are more expensive ones, depending on the appearance and size of the oysters; there are also many local seafood, lobsters, various shellfish, all very cheap. An Chuyu thought if he lived here, it would be a great experience, without having to worry about pollution!
You can also eat oysters directly at these seafood stalls. The stall owner can help you pry the oysters open, and you can eat them yourself by pouring some lemon juice on them. Thinking about An Qingju and An Chuyu's "going into the water", I didn't dare to go, so I went to the restaurant to eat.
Although it was almost six o'clock, the restaurants on the beach were still firmly implementing the French dinner policy: no dinner, but drinking and eating snacks were fine.
An Qingju and An Chuyu were hungry and looked at the menus of restaurants several times. They couldn't hold on any longer, so they walked to a restaurant near the lighthouse at the end of the road and sat down: "Two cidre, please." Two glasses of cider first:
Cider was served in this wide-mouthed, thick, coarse porcelain quilt. It was slightly sweet and not very strong, about the same as beer. Finally, it was finally time for dinner! An Qingjue and An Chuyu went straight to the restaurant they had already picked out (they had already read the menu twice, how could they not pick out one) and ordered!
There are two main ways to order seafood in a restaurant. Tourists can order a "seafood platter", which is divided into different price levels and different numbers of various types of seafood, which are clearly written on the menu. If there are many people, you can order a super seafood platter with several layers, which is probably quite addictive.
Another way to order seafood is to order specific seafood, which is what An Qingju and An Chuyu did. At first, they were afraid that it would not taste good, so they only dared to order half a dozen oysters. An Qingju also ordered red wine braised mussels (that is, clams), paired with white wine. (The novel "He Came from the End of the World" will have more fresh content on the official WeChat platform, and there will also be a 100% lucky draw gift for everyone! Open WeChat now, click the "+" sign in the upper right corner to "add friends", search for the public account "dd" and follow it, hurry up!) (To be continued..)